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While French restaurant and country cooking have been thoroughly examined by American home cooks, somewhere between the two styles lies a branch of cuisine that has been almost entirely missed: France’s bar and cafe food. This is the realm of snacks like tartines and rillettes, salads and savory tarts, and one of most delicious of…


Shrimp Jambalaya

The chef Paul Prudhomme’s unassailably authentic seafood jambalaya requires two hours of cooking time, apart from the preparation. This version stands up reasonably well, and cuts down the preparation and cooking time to just under 60 minutes. Ingredients 2 pounds shrimp in the shell 2 tablespoons corn, peanut or vegetable oil 2 tablespoons flour 1…


Braised-then-Baked Ham

Here is a sensible prescription from Julia Child for cooking a whole ham, which was featured in a New York Times article by Julia Moskin that explored the quandary of how to make a flavorful Easter ham. Braise the meat in wine and water to finish the cooking, then roast it in a hot oven…


Miso-and-Apple-Glazed Baked Ham

Ingredients 1 sirloin end ham, spiral-sliced or unsliced, 7 to 8 pounds, preferably without added nitrates or water ½ cup white miso 2 tablespoons apple butter ½ cup apple cider 1 Granny Smith apple, peeled and coarsely grated ½ cup light brown sugar 2 teaspoons coarsely ground black pepper Email Grocery List Preparation Leaving the…


Clementine Peppercorn Glaze

Ingredients 1 ½ cups (tightly packed) light brown sugar 2 clementines, stemmed if necessary, quartered, skin left on 2 fresh green serrano chilies or 1 jalapeño chili, stemmed, seeded and coarsely chopped 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon crushed red peppercorns or peppercorn blend 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard ½ teaspoon ground…


Eggs Eli

Amanda Hesser first wrote about this “blunt and tasty” egg dish, which dates back to 1909, in The New York Times Magazine. A simple dish with robust flavors, the recipe blends scrambled eggs with finely minced Virginia ham and anchovies. Before cooking, you rub the pan with a garlic clove, which scents the eggs without…